Description
The biggest limiting factor of independent front suspension (IFS) vehicles that are 4WD/AWD is the amount of angle that the front CV axles are capable of operating at. A stock forester is 28*. Subiworks Monster cv joints have a 42* working angle and can achieve unlimited length axles. Which makes these max 930 monsters the perfect solution to Subaru axle failure.
This edition DOES NOT feature an ABS tone ring and is an OFF-ROAD USE ONLY product.
Fitment for this product has not been verified for CVT transmissions. Please call for fitment conformation or questions of compatibility.
There is obviously much more to an axle than just the outer CV joint so we have put together a monster axle cv joint and boot kit. To complete the kit you will need to specify axle length according to the measurements of your custom vehicle.
THIS KIT INCLUDES
2 x PORSCHE 930 SUBIWORKS MONSTER CV JOINT – OUTER FRONT
2 x PORSCHE 930 SUBARUGEARS STANDARD LENGTH FLANGE – INNER FRONT
2 x OUTER CV AXLE BOOT – REAR
2 x 930 OUTER FLANGE
2 x INNER CV AXLE BOOT – REAR
2 x EMPI 930 CV
1 x HEAVE DUTY SPIRAL LOCKS FOR PORSCHE 930 TURBO AXLES – SET OF 4
12 x 930 CV 12 POINT SOCKET BOLT
2 x SPACERS IF NEEDED
Please specify the year make and model of your car in the notes section when you order this kit. There may be a spacer necessary to complete your install.
If you purchasse the axles with your kit you will need to measure axle length after you get the monster cv & boot kit to specify the length for your order. We will then send the custom length axles once we know the proper measurements.
The set up can be intimidating to those with no prior experience setting up these axles but, we’re here to help every step of the way.
If you are unsure of how to install these plese cunsult a profesional in your area.
Please read the assembly instructions for how to measure and test.
SUBIWORKS Monster CVs
How to measure, test, and assemble
- Place vehicle on 4 jack stands so all wheels can rotate freely.
- Remove front wheels.
- Remove front axle nuts.
- Push axles in towards center of vehicle through hub.
- Remove both front struts complete while supporting hubs. We hang them with straps.
- Remove the spring, bump stop, and covering from one of the struts. Be sure to use a spring compressor. The spring is under tension and can cause severe injury. This strut will be used to measure both sides of the vehicle. Re-install top hat and tighten nut.
7. Install this strut back on the original side it came off of.
8. Remove both sway bar end links in order to cycle each side separately.
9. Transmissions that have stub ends in them jump to step 13
10. Remove axle seal from transmission and replace with new provided seals. These seals are side specific. There is an R and L can be found on the seal surface. Driver side is Left. Some models require removing the bearing adjuster. Make sure you mark the
original position and only do 1 side at a time. These caps are very important to the ring and pinion and should be put back the exact way they came out. Make sure not to damage the o-ring or sealing surface. Apply oil to o-ring before reinstalling it. See shop
manual if you are unsure on how to replace these seals.
11. Install snap ring on stub end and install into transmission with a soft rubber mallet.
12. Repeat seal install and stub end on other side.
13. Install the inner flanges and roll pins to the stub ends. If the flange has 2 sets of holes use the inner most holes if possible. This allows for the longest possible axle. The holes are offset. Before the roll pin is installed make sure the punch will go all the way through the hole. If not, take off flange and rotate 180* and try putting the punch through. Once the punch will go through then the roll pin can be installed. 14. Install the outer CV (and spacer if required, bolt in wheel bearings require this, spacer is on the outside before the axle nut) and tighten nut to factory specifications.
15. With the suspension at full droop (suspension dropped all the way down) measure the distance from the groove in the outer CV to the inner shaft inside the flange on the side where the strut was reinstalled.
16. Record the distance between these 2 points
17. Jack up the hub until the strut bottoms out at full bump. Measure distance again and record the measurement.
18. Take the shortest measurement between the 2 and add 1/2” to the measurement. This is
the length for the axle shaft needed.
19. Remove strut and install on opposite side. Repeat steps 15-18. Measurements may be
different.
20. New axles may be marked R and L on the ends. Be sure to use correct sides.
21. On the inner spline there needs to be a second snap ring groove made at the end of the splines before it tapers off. This groove should be approximately the same width of the existing groove at the end of the shaft.
22. If the shaft needs to be cut to proper length, cut off the other end to proper length and taper the splines to aid in install.
23. 1” from tapered end there needs to be another groove cut into the splines, .100” wide. Verify groove is wide enough for the snap ring.
24. Assemble axle dry (without grease) and install on side with bare strut installed. Tighten outer axle nut and install 2 bolts to mount inner CV assembly to flange.
25. At full droop verify axle does not bind (there should be little play on the shaft) and turn from lock to lock while rechecking for axle shaft binding.
26. Jack up hub to full bump and turn lock to lock while verifying axle shaft never binds or gets tight.
27. Repeat steps 25 and 26 on opposite side. Move strut to other side and install dry assembled axle for correct side.
If any binding occurs on either side then the axle length must be shortened until binding stops. Only take off ¼” at a time from the non-tapered side. Each time a new groove must be added to reinstall the snap ring. Reinstall and re-test until there is no more binding.
28. Remove both axles and reassemble with grease, boots, and clamps.
29. Remove outer CV joint and fill with grease until it pushes past the balls.
30. Install shaft until it clips in the snap ring. This should push more grease past the balls.
Rotate shaft in a circular motion mixing grease into balls and cage. Once grease is mixed in adequately, add some more grease to the top of the cage and balls around the shaft.
31. Slide outer boot down shaft. Remove any grease in boot mounting surface and install
boot. Install both clamps. Make sure not to over tighten clamps, this will cause premature failure of the boot. When the clamp is tight the boot will no longer spin on the joint or shaft.
32. Slide inner clamp and inner boot down the shaft to leave room for assembly.
33. Install one snap ring on inner most groove.
34. Grease inner CV assembly so all mating surfaced are coated. Install boot ring and CV assembly with the small cage opening of the CV towards end of shaft.
35. At this point the axle can be bolted into place… or you can remove the inner flange from
the vehicle and completely build the axle off the vehicle. This seems to be the easier way. Make sure the cv bolts get torque to 50lbs. You can re-torque after 500 miles. New bolts will stretch a bit at first.
36. Once shafts are built the vehicle can be reassembled and with loaded struts. Don’t forget to reattach the sway bar (if you plan on keeping it).
37. Install the axles and make sure the boots and clamps clear by 1/4” all the way around.
Torque the axle nut to factory specifications. ( re-torque after 100 miles)
38. Road test and enjoy!
These CVs are meant to last which means you will have to remove, inspect and re-grease them
occasionally. We recommend doing this every year if you abuse your vehicle like we do!!
The balls, cage, and star can be replaced if any scaring is found during service. We recommend buying a spare inner and a spare outer set of internals along with 1 inner and 1 outer boot with clamps.
We carry spares in our vehicle for long trips so they can be rebuilt on the road without
delay should it be necessary.
If you have any questions please call Subiworks at (951)691-5679.
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